Table of Contents
What is acne?
What causes acne scars?
Acne scars are caused by inflammation within the dermal layer of skin and are estimated to affect 95% of people with acne vulgaris. The scar is created by abnormal healing following this dermal inflammation. Scarring is most likely to take place with severe acne, but may occur with any form of acne vulgaris. Acne scars are classified based on whether the abnormal healing response following dermal inflammation leads to excess collagen deposition or loss at the site of the acne lesion.
Acne scars take many different forms. You might see tiny pockmarks, a swollen keloid, or a discolored area on the skin. And just like the types of scars vary, there isn’t a one-size-fits-all fix. Your dermatologist can use a combination of treatments including lasers, chemical peels, or fillers to minimize the spots.
What are the best ingredients for acne scars?
The best ingredients for acne scars are vitamin C, retinol, and alpha hydroxy acids. Each of these ingredients can be found in a variety of over-the-counter products such as cleansers, serums, and moisturizers.
It is important to note that the best ingredients for acne scars are very powerful. They should only be used when scarring has already occurred. If you have active acne, you should focus on treating the current breakouts, not preventing the future ones.
Vitamin C is a great ingredient because it helps promote collagen production. Collagen is the protein that gives skin its structure and firmness. When collagen breaks down, it results in sagging skin as well as fine lines and wrinkles. By promoting collagen production, vitamin C can help prevent sagging skin and fine lines from forming in the future. It can also help reduce the appearance of existing fine lines and wrinkles by plumping up the skin with more collagen.
Retinol is an ingredient that helps promote cell turnover. Cell turnover refers to how often new cells are created in your body and die off to be replaced with new ones. When you have acne scars, it’s important to keep your cells turning over at a normal rate so they don’t grow too quickly.
Hydroquinone: is a skin-lightening agent used to lighten areas of darkened skin such as freckles, age spots, melasma (sun damage), and chloasma (darkened skin caused by hormonal changes). Hydroquinone decreases the formation of melanin in the skin. Melanin is the pigment in skin that gives it a brown color
Retinoids: are a class of vitamin A compounds that have been found to be highly effective in treating acne. They work by reducing the production of sebum (skin oil) and increasing skin cell turnover, which helps pores shed dead skin cells that can clog them and lead to pimples. Retinoids can also help reduce inflammation caused by acne, as well as unclog pores.
Kojic Acid: is a chelation agent produced by several species of fungi, especially Aspergillus oryzae, which has the Japanese common name koji. Kojic acid is a by-product in the fermentation process of malting rice, for use in the manufacturing of sake, the Japanese rice wine. It is a mild inhibitor of the formation of pigment in plant and animal tissues, and is used in food and cosmetics to preserve or change colors of substances. In food, it is most frequently found in miso.
AHAs: are naturally occurring acids derived from fruit and milk sugars. They’re most commonly known for their ability to exfoliate the skin, which helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, evens skin tone and texture, and visibly reduces pore size.
Azelaic Acid: is a naturally occurring acid found in whole-grain cereals and animal products. It has antibacterial properties. Azelaic acid is used topically to treat mild to moderate acne and also to lighten hyperpigmentation, such as brown patches (melasma) on the skin.
Treatment options for raised scars
Cortisone. This is injected into the scar to help flatten it.
Silicone sheeting. A silicone sheet may be placed over a scar to help flatten it and soften its appearance.
Laser treatment. This can flatten the scar, reduce redness and improve healing. Laser treatments are safe and effective, but can be expensive and usually require multiple sessions.
Surgery. This is an option when the scar has caused functional problems, such as with movement or breathing.
Pressure therapy. Pressure therapy involves wearing a compression garment or silicone sheets for several hours each day for several months to reduce the appearance of a scar by keeping it flat and softening it.
How do you prevent acne scars?
1. Wash your face regularly.
2. Remove makeup before bed
3. Apply sunscreen to your face every day during the summer, and on bright winter days as well.
4. Avoid picking at or popping pimples
5. Don’t use harsh products on your skin
6. Keep your hands off your face
7. Treat acne early
8. See a dermatologist early if you have severe acne or a condition that might cause scarring, such as a family history of facial scarring
How does ageing affect acne scars?
As we age, our skin changes. The effects of ageing on the skin are well known, but the effects of ageing on acne scars are not as well understood. Acne scars improve with time, but some may remain permanently. Ageing may improve or worsen acne scarring depending on the type of scar and the patient’s age at scar formation.
Ageing affects acne scars because as we age our collagen production decreases. This means that, as we get older, our bodies create less collagen to replace old collagen.
The appearance of acne scars often worsens with age due to two main factors.
Firstly, the skin naturally becomes thinner as you age. This process is called involutional atrophy and is responsible for the common skin changes that occur with ageing, such as neck lines, brow furrows and crow’s feet. As time goes on, the collagen and elastin fibres in your skin begin to degrade and this breakdown results in the loss of volume and elasticity in your skin. The end result is that acne scars become more shallow and less visible as we get older.
Secondly, sun exposure causes damage to the DNA of your skin cells which leads to a reduction in collagen production. This can also worsen existing acne scars, although some people find that their scars initially appear better after sun exposure before worsening over time.
What's the best way to treat fine lines and acne scars?
The most effective ways to treat fine lines and acne scars:
Chemical peels. A chemical peel can help you get rid of both superficial and deep acne scars. This treatment involves applying a chemical agent to your skin, then peeling off the top layer. It can cause some redness and stinging, but the results are often worth it: Chemical peels are one of the few dermatological procedures that have been scientifically proven to improve acne scarring.
Injections. Injections of corticosteroids or hyaluronic acid can plump up depressed acne scars and fill in fine lines. They’re not permanent, but they usually last long enough to be worth it — six months to a year or so. Laser therapy. Lasers stimulate collagen production, which helps make skin look firmer and less wrinkled. They can also remove the outer layers of skin cells, improving the appearance of acne scars. There is no one-size-fits-all approach to treating fine lines or acne scars, so be sure to talk with your dermatologist about which option will work best for you.
Can you get rid of scarring with skincare?
The short answer is, no. You can’t get rid of scarring with skincare because scars are formed when there is damage to the deeper layers of skin – the dermis. Although you might be able to improve the appearance of scarring, it is a permanent feature.
So how are scars formed?
When we scratch ourselves or have an injury, blood vessels are damaged and bleed under our skin. As the blood vessels repair themselves, they form a web-like structure of collagen fibres.
The collagen fibres in the deeper layer of our skin are aligned in the same direction as normal skin (think about the strands of hair on your head). But for scars, the fibres are arranged randomly and this gives it that bumpy look compared to normal skin.
Scars also lack sweat glands and hair follicles, so they look different from normal skin.
When should you see a GP or dermatologist about acne scars?
You should visit your GP if:
You have significant scarring that is affecting your quality of life (for example, if you’re avoiding social situations because of the way your skin looks)
You’re concerned about the appearance of the scars and you’d like them to be removed
You’ve tried over-the-counter treatments for several weeks but they haven’t worked
When should you see a dermatologist?
A dermatologist can assess your acne scars and recommend an effective treatment. Make an appointment with a dermatologist if:
Your self-esteem is being affected by the appearance of your scars, and this is causing you additional stress and anxiety
Your GP has recommended seeing a specialist
Are the scars permanent?
No, most scars fade over time. The length of time it takes for a scar to fade depends on the individual’s tendency to scar and the type of treatment.
A scar is a mark left on the skin after a wound or injury has healed. Scars are a natural part of the healing process. Most will fade although they never completely disappear.